There is no lack of excitement in this collection, although the basic silhouettes may persuade you otherwise. We can assume the weather in Vevers’ world of Coach to be slightly unpredictable, as the collection largely consists of oversized, shearling coats juxtaposed by their simple bra tops, or simply nothing, underneath. Mod 60s-inspired mini dresses (Peter Pan collar and all) become grunge when paired with black leather chokers with striking hardware. Graffitied trenches and leather vests make their way into the lineup and somehow fit in perfectly with the sequined baby doll dresses that precede them. Every color and pattern makes sense within the lineup, as we see glimpses of hot pink and orange in florals and houndstooth, then repeated in the form of oversized sunglasses frames.
I guess the diversity of the lineup is something to note, as the show includes models of all genders, races, sizes, and species. The employment of an impeccably groomed afghan hound to open the show was a great touch. However, a diverse medley of models should now be seen as extremely commonplace in the fashion industry. My biggest complaint of the show was Vevers’ choice to keep male models in traditionally masculine silhouettes. How exciting would it have been to see a male model peacock down the runway in one of the white, crocheted Easter dresses? The most gender-norm bending silhouette on the runway are the tartan kilts we see in the middle of the show, although my Scottish boyfriend would be inclined to disagree. With brands like Gucci and Off-White already breaking these norms, Vevers’ collection was ultimately joyless in this sense.
I must applaud the finale of show, as instead of walking in a traditional straight line, the models congregate into the middle of Pier 36 organically, walking and skipping as if they weren’t in a runway show at all. The clothing represents a new era for Coach filled with juxtaposition and excitement, something most consumers can get behind. As the models flock to center stage, they act as inhabitants of the fictitious small town that makes up the show’s setting. However, in Stuart Vevers’ town, men don’t wear dresses.
